Je rassemble ici le résumé de mes publications Instagram (en anglais) sur ma rééducation des doigts. Article prochainement en français si ça vous intéresse…
Healing nagging finger injuries
Since october, I have struggled with an unidentifiable pain in my lateral band of the proximal and intermediate phalanges of my left middle finger when I was crimping. It started with a violent pain on a jug. I directly stopped but since scans and MRI didn’t show anything else than inflammation I kept going and continued climbing twice a week (with tape) with the blessing of my doctors and physio.
I had ups and downs, I felt well (because I did not take any crimp) but it didn’t heal. I had different kind of pains but always along the flexor digitorum tendon and his insertion (lateral side), like a tendinitis. I tried a lot of exercices and treatments with my physio but that pain just didn’t leave!!
So, during Christmas holidays, we decided that I would stop climbing for 3 weeks, I was bored and I needed to find a solution. When I started again, I fell exactly the same. The same pain, at the same place. BUT I was sure that if something was broken it was not anymore because I gave it time to heal!! We soon understood that the scar tissue was the problem and that I needed to remodel it.
To rehab my middle finger but also to strengthen my ring finger pulley (after my pulley surgery), I needed to slowly learn to crimp again! I haven’t crimped with my left hand for 6 months!! In agreement with my physio and my trainer, I started an eccentric program based on Stanish Protocol (see below). Of course it hurt at the beginning and I felt terribly weak but the results were immediately encouraging…
Recommendations:
⚠️ Make sure to be warmed up!
⚠️ Be careful not to slip!
⚠️ Stop if it hurts abnormally.
Level 1
This exercice is level 1 of my program. In full body extension, pull on good crimps with big feet and do the eccentric slowly and in control.
5 x (30” work, 45” rest), 2 series with 5’ between
When I started rehab level 1, my hand was shaking and I felt terribly weak! It didn’t really hurt but of course I felt something (about 2/10 if I had to evaluate the pain). It’s normal, said my physio, the tissue are working. Also, I couldn’t climb more than a hour the day after, even without crimping! I chose to take it easy with climbing for a few weeks, because my rehabilitation is the priority. It’s important listening to your fingers.
After a week of level 1 (every other day), I felt better and stronger. It became easy which means I was ready for level 2!
Level 2
The action to pull (concentric) is the same as level 1 (pull on good crimps with big feet in your maximum body extension). Then keep crimping for 3 seconds, time to change your feet to really smaller ones. And do the eccentric slowly and in control.
5 x (30” work 44” rest), 2 series with 5′ between
In addition
To complet my remodeling program I also did some hangs based on this very nice protocol (phase 2) made by Esther Smith for Black Diamond : https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_FR/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries
I mainly foccused my recovery on 1/2 crimp and good sloppers (with 2 phalanges) hangs because it was what hurt me the most, but you must choose holds that are good for your recovery.
6 x (10″ hang, 20″ rest), 2 series with 5′ between
Finally, I also tried to strengthen my lumbricals muscles by contrating the palm of the hand having your fingers stretched.
Results
Doing this exercies every other days, I was thrilled by the quick progress I made on level 1. But the level 2 was really harder and took much more time. I used to do my exercices a first time, slowly, to finish my warm up and another time at the end of my climbing session.
It was awesome being able to effectively continue my physical therapy program while climbing and progressing in training, allowing my A2 pulley and flexor tendon to fully repair (what was the priority!).
Today, I don’t really know why (weather? fatigue?), there are days when I still have pain (only on my middle finger) because of the inflammation but after a few repetitions of the eccentric exercises I don’t feel any pain anymore ! And I can go rockclimbing again !!!
Hope this article can help you. It takes time, stay positive!
See you soon,
Soso ♥